Beijing

[LarsMac]

I have been in Beijing for most of the last week.

To sum up the city in one word, I think that word would be frenetic.

It is very busy here, and everyone is rushing to get somewhere.

I am staying at a nice hotel near the CBD (Central Business District)

First thoughts.

Upon arriving, and being greeted by a lady employed by Airport to get me effectively through the airport, Immigration Authority, Customs and to the car hired to take me to my hotel, I found the overall process efficient and stress-free.

The first real experience was the drive to the hotel. I made the right decision in NOT renting a car, of this I am certain.

The streets are well-laid-out, and well marked with lane markers, street signs, turn lanes, Bicycle lanes and traffic lights.

To paraphrase from the Film, "Pirates of the Caribbean" these are not so much 'Rules' as ' Guidelines' and not so much 'Guidelines', really, as 'Suggestions', or perhaps, 'Hints' ?



Everyone goes in the same general direction, but the lane shifts are constant, and folks in a hurry will take the bicycle and pedestrian lanes and the dart across multiple lanes of traffic without the slightest hint of their intentions being broadcast ahead of time.

Anything is fair game, as long as you are not involved in a fender-bender, so it is a constant game of 'chicken'

As a passenger, the best thing to do is find something to read, or converse with other passenger, look up at the buildings, or take a nap. ANYTHING but try to watch what is going on in the immediate vicinity of your car. Trust me.

A a pedestrian, there are a whole different set of challenges, but they are similar to Roma, or Paris. The best thing to do, to avoid being bumped into, knocked over, knocked down, run over, or turned into a grease-spot on the pavement, is pay attention, watch where you are going, and be consistent, and predictable.

Don't move if you are not watching the direction you wish to go. Don't trust the traffic signals to protect you. You are on your own out there. Watch upstream traffic carefully, both bikes and cars.

For most of the week, the sky has been a dingy gray smog, unlike any smog I have ever experienced before. There are WAY too many cars in Beijing, and the air quality suffers for it. Plus the hills and mountains to the north block air flow often and the air gathers in the basin. Then the heat and humidity have been terrible. 30 plus temps with 90+ % humidity.

Today, however, has been a beautiful day, with blue skies, and nice breeze from the NW and the sun shining down, with temperatures around 26

I spent the morning walking about and enjoying the day, watching people here do what people all over the world like to do on such days:

Families enjoying each others' company, Young men trying to look cool and tough, young ladies trying to look chic, and people mostly out enjoying a wonderful Sunday.

later, a trip to the Great wall: Being a tourist in China.

[K.Snyder]

Perhaps "frenetic" by the perspectives of visitors, eh?

[Clodhopper]

Interesting. I wonder if the Beijingers (Beijingese?) are frenetic in the way Londoners were in the early C18th, and New Yorkers were in the early C20th? Is this the scurry of huge wealth creation in the capitalist mode? Certainly seems like it. The modern Chinese Industrial Barons are being made.

Friend of mine who was in China about a decade ago said that at that time the Chinese had no sense - no sense at all - of pollution, overuse of resources and climate change. I wonder if that has begun to change?

[LarsMac]

Perhaps.

I am sure that the average Beijing resident, by now, feels quite normal in the midst of all the activity.

I know that when I lived Los Angeles, all the hustle and bustle of LA seemed quite normal, but now that I live in a small town in the Ozarks, even Kansas City or Denver can seem rather hectic.

But this is a whole new level, unrivaled by most cities in the world, I suspect. It must have been very exciting to have been here a few years before the Olympics, to see the activity then, as the city prepared to host the world.

With around 20 million registered residents, and a few million more coming to do business, the city is fantastically busy.

The energy around here is at once invigorating, and exhausting.

I am enjoying every minute.

[LarsMac]

Clodhopper;1325411 wrote: Interesting. I wonder if the Beijingers (Beijingese?) are frenetic in the way Londoners were in the early C18th, and New Yorkers were in the early C20th? Is this the scurry of huge wealth creation in the capitalist mode? Certainly seems like it. The modern Chinese Industrial Barons are being made.

Friend of mine who was in China about a decade ago said that at that time the Chinese had no sense - no sense at all - of pollution, overuse of resources and climate change. I wonder if that has begun to change?


At the administrator level, they do. The press and the 'official' government documentation seems to speak to the problem, but the guy on the streets seems to give it no more mind than does the average American.

[LarsMac]

The streets are relatively clean in the CBD, and one may be fooled into thinking it is because of a certain environmental awareness, until one sees the window of a car open and all sorts of refuse fly out. Then one wonders how things can be so neat and tidy looking.

Early in the morning one might see the answer. There are a lot of people, mostly elderly women, who are out and about in the morning, sweeping the streets and collecting trash, sorting through what can be recycled, and what cannot. Then guys with flatbed tricycles collect all the recyclables and deliver to collection points to exchange for cash, while city vehicles pick up the trash.

So, perhaps the guy in the car was just trying to help the poor folks make some money?

[along-for-the-ride]

Very interesting observations, LarsMac. As a person who has never been to China, I do appreciate your sharing with us here. Please do continue.

[chonsigirl]

Wow, what a great experience for you!

[Clodhopper]

At the administrator level, they do. The press and the 'official' government documentation seems to speak to the problem, but the guy on the streets seems to give it no more mind than does the average American.


Ah well. It's a start.

[LarsMac]

Second week here.

It has been a terrific experience.

Thanks to my local co-workers, I have been treated to some excellent restaurants, serving a nice mix of traditional China food, from all over the country, and I have sampled some of the new offerings from up and coming chefs, who base their creations on the traditional, but with a international flair.

At the risk of offending my hosts, I must confess that many of the "interesting" traditional foods are not exactly appealing to me. I like exotic food, but only to a point. Beef Penis is way beyond that point.

And, while I LOVE seafood, I have yet to develop an appreciation of the Chinese treatment of fresh-water fish. Of course I am limited in my treatment of fresh-water fish in many countries. Fried walleye and Catfish are really about my limit.



Upon arrival, I met a co-worker fro dinner, and for the first time in my life, had the famous Peking Duck, Something I had never tried in the US.

It was wonderful, and somehow fitting that it was my first meal in Beijing.

The hotel I am in has a terrific buffet breakfast with food from all around the world. Their treatment of what I consider a breakfast staple, Bacon and eggs, is a bit off. Over easy is a far more difficult concept than one would imagine, I guess, and grits are non-existent.

But they have the "baked tomato" that I found to be a nice breakfast item in the UK, so I forgive the slight on Grits.

As for local food, the Chinese have learned very well the concept of marketing brought in by McDonalds and KFC, and there are now fast-food restaurants all about town in the office district, offering quick-serve meals of every ilk, and there are many street vendors making good money offering food people can buy and wolf down while on the subway, or walking from the station to the office.

You can also wander the back streets and sample the REAL local food, though there are few local folks in these areas who understand, or will admit to understanding English, which complicates the transaction process. Also, being the only Gweilo within many blocks brings out the gawkers, and you can become very self-conscious while trying to dine.

It is also important to remember that the hygiene and health policies that one expects in the international commercial districts of the world do not always filter down to the street level, so you must accept some personal responsibility for your own well-being, if you wish to avoid food-borne illnesses and extra "prayer Sessions" with the porcelain deity - If you know what I mean.

[Clodhopper]

How wonderful for you to be shown round by people who know the area. I do have the impression that in China, anything edible is rapid and scared or lunch. I share your feelings about both Beef Penis and Peking Duck.

Bacon and baked/grilled tomato = classic breakfast.

chuckle. You are describing the same sort of food hygiene rules I remember from India, the most important of which was only ever drinking bottled water and checking the seal of every bottle.

Sounds a wonderful experience. Glad you are enjoying it. It's good to be a stranger in a strange land from time to time.

[Odie]

great experiences you've had there!

I wouldn't fancy beef penis either.

nor their lack of hygiene.

[LarsMac]

Three weeks on.

I confess it gets a bit of a wear to have folks stare at you all the time.

I know how some other folks feel in the states, now.

Tourism.

When you take the paid tours, like through "Grey Lines" they take you to a couple of places for you to sample the culture, and probably get a percentage of the take from whatever you buy. Our trip to the Wall included a stop at a Cloisonne factory, and then to the China Tea Commission.

Yep, I found some nice trinkets for the family and even bought some tea. But frankly, I would rather have spent the extra few hours on the Wall.

The wall is a terrific sight. to think of the work it took to build the original wall is awe-inspiring. Equal to viewing the pyramids, or some of the Greek and Roman accomplishments.

The wall was originally built around the 5th century, BC, but what you can see now, was built in the Ming Dynasty period of the 15th century. and even that has decayed in most areas, and been rebuilt in the 19th and 20th centuries. It is still quite the engineering marvel, because much of the terrain is rocky mountains with difficult passes for hauling in materials.

Of course now, all the towns along the wall are working at rebuilding the wall near their area, so they can get in on the tourist trade.

The sites are so crowded it takes a lot of energy to be a tourist. Walt Disney World in the summer has NOTHING on this place.

There are street vendors, of course, selling all sorts of tour books, trinkets and gee-gaws, bottle water, ice cream sticks and such. and the gravitate to a Gweilo (Foreigner. I have heard it is a name for stinky white folks, too, but none of my hosts would own up to that one) like catfish to a breadball. They are not allowed inside the walls, but you can't get away from the place without running the gauntlet. And if you dare buy from one of them, they all seem to smell blood and move in for the kill (er,...,ah, I mean, sale)



The street vendor thing is the same at every tourist venue in the country. I think they are actually licensed by the City, or State, and they have to pay a sizable cut to keep that license. ((again, no confirmation)

A co-worker offered to play tour guide for a day, and we went to the Forbidden City, and to the Summer Palace.

The Forbidden City was so crowded, it was hard to actually SEE anything. And inside the compound there was not breeze, and the temp and humidity were terrible. My Enochlophobia was driving me mad most of the time. I had to go stand in the corner and re-center myself a dozen times.

It is nevertheless fascinating to see such a place.

The Summer palace was no less crowded, but it was open, and the breeze helped to keep the air fresh.

I love the architecture, and the Summer Palace has a covered walkway with hundreds of paintings made centuries ago, depicting many of the legends and tales of ancient China.

Not a good idea to try to see both of these in a day. There is just too much to cover. Also, parking is a new concept in China. It is probably a good idea to take the subway to the station near the place, and hire a cab to drop you at the site.

Driving is not the best way to get around Beijing.

[Odie]

LarsMac;1327406 wrote: Three weeks on.

I confess it gets a bit of a wear to have folks stare at you all the time.

I know how some other folks feel in the states, now.

Tourism.

When you take the paid tours, like through "Grey Lines" they take you to a couple of places for you to sample the culture, and probably get a percentage of the take from whatever you buy. Our trip to the Wall included a stop at a Cloisonne factory, and then to the China Tea Commission.

Yep, I found some nice trinkets for the family and even bought some tea. But frankly, I would rather have spent the extra few hours on the Wall.

The wall is a terrific sight. to think of the work it took to build the original wall is awe-inspiring. Equal to viewing the pyramids, or some of the Greek and Roman accomplishments.

The wall was originally built around the 5th century, BC, but what you can see now, was built in the Ming Dynasty period of the 15th century. and even that has decayed in most areas, and been rebuilt in the 19th and 20th centuries. It is still quite the engineering marvel, because much of the terrain is rocky mountains with difficult passes for hauling in materials.

Of course now, all the towns along the wall are working at rebuilding the wall near their area, so they can get in on the tourist trade.

The sites are so crowded it takes a lot of energy to be a tourist. Walt Disney World in the summer has NOTHING on this place.

There are street vendors, of course, selling all sorts of tour books, trinkets and gee-gaws, bottle water, ice cream sticks and such. and the gravitate to a Gweilo (Foreigner. I have heard it is a name for stinky white folks, too, but none of my hosts would own up to that one) like catfish to a breadball. They are not allowed inside the walls, but you can't get away from the place without running the gauntlet. And if you dare buy from one of them, they all seem to smell blood and move in for the kill (er,...,ah, I mean, sale)



The street vendor thing is the same at every tourist venue in the country. I think they are actually licensed by the City, or State, and they have to pay a sizable cut to keep that license. ((again, no confirmation)

A co-worker offered to play tour guide for a day, and we went to the Forbidden City, and to the Summer Palace.

The Forbidden City was so crowded, it was hard to actually SEE anything. And inside the compound there was not breeze, and the temp and humidity were terrible. My Enochlophobia was driving me mad most of the time. I had to go stand in the corner and re-center myself a dozen times.

It is nevertheless fascinating to see such a place.

The Summer palace was no less crowded, but it was open, and the breeze helped to keep the air fresh.

I love the architecture, and the Summer Palace has a covered walkway with hundreds of paintings made centuries ago, depicting many of the legends and tales of ancient China.

Not a good idea to try to see both of these in a day. There is just too much to cover. Also, parking is a new concept in China. It is probably a good idea to take the subway to the station near the place, and hire a cab to drop you at the site.

Driving is not the best way to get around Beijing.


The tours sound really nice and its always special to find things to bring back home.

Very shocked to hear you had no air conditioning.:-3

Oh I would love the see the architecture, that`s what makes a city:guitarist

What a shame with line-ups being so long, especially when its that hot, but its the same here when ones see our attractions in Toronto, some are over 3 hours.

I would never drive around Beijing either, just to crowded.

[LarsMac]

Very shocked to hear you had no air conditioning.

Air conditioning is common in the buildings. But the Forbidden City is a huge outdoor compound the size of several city blocks, all walled up and surrounded by a moat. The walls are 3-4 meters high. So unless you are on the upper levels, there is no breeze to be had.

It was around 35 degrees that day, with 80+ % humidity.

Add to that several thousands of people, and it was less than comfortable.

It was still quite fascinating.

[LarsMac]

Traffic, revisited.

Beijing has 4.5 million privately owned autos registered. I think there are at least that many taxis and hired cars.

I think in a normal business day, nearly every one of them is on the streets.



There is hardly any place to park.

Half of the people driving have only been licensed for 2 or 3 years.

I don't know how the driver training is done here, but from the looks of it, they don't have to do much before getting a license.

It is truly remarkable how few accidents there are. I saw as many accidents in Shanghai in one day as in the total time I have been in Beijing.

It may be because everyone is still learning, so they are very careful (relatively) and there are so many cars, it is difficult to build enough speed to get out of control.

[Odie]

LarsMac;1327513 wrote: Very shocked to hear you had no air conditioning.

Air conditioning is common in the buildings. But the Forbidden City is a huge outdoor compound the size of several city blocks, all walled up and surrounded by a moat. The walls are 3-4 meters high. So unless you are on the upper levels, there is no breeze to be had.

It was around 35 degrees that day, with 80+ % humidity.

Add to that several thousands of people, and it was less than comfortable.

It was still quite fascinating.


I didn't realize it was in a compound.

and you thought Toronto was cold when you were here last winter!:yh_rotfl

You needed a battery hand held fan there topping 35 degrees!

It does indeed sound fascinating, Forbidden City!

[ANITA0101]

LarsMac;1327517 wrote: Traffic, revisited.

Beijing has 4.5 million privately owned autos registered. I think there are at least that many taxis and hired cars.

I think in a normal business day, nearly every one of them is on the streets.



There is hardly any place to park.

Half of the people driving have only been licensed for 2 or 3 years.

I don't know how the driver training is done here, but from the looks of it, they don't have to do much before getting a license.

It is truly remarkable how few accidents there are. I saw as many accidents in Shanghai in one day as in the total time I have been in Beijing.

It may be because everyone is still learning, so they are very careful (relatively) and there are so many cars, it is difficult to build enough speed to get out of control.


Really like this thread! As a Chinese, I really don't like the environment in Beijing! Too many people, too many cars,sand storm,high housing price etc.A strange city!

[EverWanted]

Give me a condo in San Antonio any day! I'm not taking that flight halfway around the world just so I can watch people run in a different direction from the city I'm in. I do not understand taking a vacation in a city. I'm just a red-neck, I guess.

[LarsMac]

Odie;1327571 wrote: I didn't realize it was in a compound.

and you thought Toronto was cold when you were here last winter!:yh_rotfl

You needed a battery hand held fan there topping 35 degrees!

It does indeed sound fascinating, Forbidden City!


The Forbidden City is a walled compound, surrounded by a moat.

It was considered impregnable in its heyday.

Regular folk were not allowed inside the walls, only those who served the emperor, and official visitors.

By today's standards, it really isn't that big.

[Cody Wellard]

Thanks for sharing your experience, probably won't ever see Beijing except through the eyes of folks like you who love to share! I have been to NZ a couple of times, the first time several years back and there weren't any fast food eating establishments to be found, was amazed at how they had popped up everywhere on my last visit!